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Reflections on the year gone by...

12/27/2025

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The past few weeks have been cold and chilly in Bangalore. As I sit by the window, watching clouds as they slowly drift, my mind travels back to the year gone by. It has been a year of significant global shifts, economic insecurity, suffering in the throes of war and transformations ushered in by artificial intelligence. Caught in the midst of them all, we will have to embrace activities that nurture rather than drain our spirits. For Ahalya and myself, it has been sojourns in aesthetic domains and nature. Here are some wanderlust narratives from the archives of memory…
We began the year, exploring the rich cultural heritage in Pudukottai district of Tamil Nadu. The region is a treasure trove of South Indian history and art. We were privileged to have the guidance and expertise of Sri Ramkumar Ravindran (thanks to our dear friend Dr T Krishnamurti), as we explored the sculptural riches of the Moovar Koil and Kudumiyanmalai temple. We then made forays into lesser known areas of Chettinad, scrupulously avoiding the glittering, repurposed heritage mansions, ably guided by another friend Ms Muthatha. The vast expanse of Avudaiyar Kovil beckoned us and when we made our way to a lesser visited precinct of the temple, we were thrilled to find numerous beautiful old frescoes
I had heard and researched about two interesting temples in Anantapur district of Andhra Pradesh and an invitation for a CME lecture by the Andhra Pradesh Psychiatric Society, provided a welcome opportunity to visit them. In the arid, dusty, little town of Tadipatri are two architectural gems, Chintala Venkataramana Swamy and Bugga Ramalingeshwara temples. The former has every inch of its wall sculpted with stories from Ramayana, Mahabharatha and scenes from Lord Krishna’s life. The majestic gopurams of the latter are embellished with amazing sculptures.
Manas National Park had been in our radar for long. We couldn’t make it for some time due to the brutal Bodoland conflict. Things have settled down well now and many of those involved in the internecine wars have become talented guides. We spent three marvellous days traversing the vast interiors of the park, along with the passionate birder, Ms Sobhana. The varying landscape is blessed with an amazing array of bird life, in addition to scores of elephants and rhinos. Manas park adjoins the Royal Manas Bhutan National Park and one can visit parts of it, with permission. It is a rich tapestry of stunning emerald rivers with astounding birds, like the Wreathed Hornbills. We had a fleeting glimpse of the rare, endangered Bengal Florican and that beckoned us for another visit there!
Sojourns in the wild continued over next couple of months with forays into Munnar, Wayanad, Nagarhole and Coorg. We were fortunate to have the company of Mr Rajeev at Munnar who introduced us to a wide array of birds, some of which were lifers for us, like the Palani Laughing Thrush. Had excellent glimpses of a wide array of wildlife at Wayanad and Nagarhole, with Dr Kishor, where a pair of White Bellied Woodpeckers kept us enthralled with their tireless pecking. And finally at Coorg, in the serene ambiance of the Hornbill Nest, a group of Malabar Grey Hornbills fluttered all around us.
In addition to the CME lectures, it was an extremely poignant moment for me to deliver the Prof RL Kapur Oration at the National Institute of Advanced Studies. Prof Kapur was an inspiring teacher who broadened my clinical gaze to incorporate cultural nuances of psychological suffering.
Training in psychotherapy largely remains an unaddressed and neglected issue in post graduate courses in psychiatry in India. It is on this background that I find the initiative taken by Dr Kishor to launch a pan India program to fill this lacuna, which is a very important beginning. In tune with this, he requested me to lead an in-person psychotherapy supervisory session and it has been an engaging and stimulating experience, interacting with a group of talented, committed youngsters.

On a personal front, two of our dear elders are in throes of demanding illnesses during the later part of the year; a poignant reminder of the fragility of life. When I was attending to them, there was an invitation to deliver a TEDx lecture. The title, ‘At The Edge of Certainty’ provided an opportunity to address many challenging issues that we have to negotiate in the midst of uncertainty and confront the liminality of our existence. Hopefully the recording should be ready in the New Year!
The year was mosaic of experiences, each moment, whether joyful or difficult, was part of a larger tapestry of learning. It opened up avenues for personal reflection and broadened the perspective to explore and savour the rich beauty that surrounds us whether on the walls of a dark chamber in a temple or catching a glimpse of uncommon avian species. Often, these experiences metamorph into forays within, and inside, the journey has no end. Travels outside expand horizons, travels within deepen roots…
“The year was a river
As I coursed through it
I found myself renewed.”

Dr Raguram
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a unique motif in indian art

12/10/2025

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I have long been fascinated with mural paintings. The technique and process of making them has been discussed in the Vishnudharamotaram, a Sanskrit text of the 5th/6th century CE. India has a long tradition of mural paintings which have been extensively documented. Unfortunately, a similar interest and initiative has been strikingly absent with regard to mural paintings of South India. It is on this background I have been travelling and documenting these artistic treasures from various temples and palaces in South India.
The Imperial Chola dynasty began in the 9th century CE after overthrowing the Pallavas and reached its zenith in the 10th and 11th centuries. Temple architecture reached its peak under the Cholas, incorporating variations from the Pallava style. This period also ushered in mural tradition in temples, the most beautiful example of which is at the Brahadeeswarar temple at Thanjavur. After the fall of the three major dynasties in South India, Chola, Chera and Pallavas, Vijayanagara, the last great empire to rule over most of peninsular India, started embellishing places of worship with murals. The Kalyana Mandapa in Virupaksha temple at Hampi and the temple at Lepakshi has some exquisitely painted murals. Once the Vijayanagara empire fell, after the disastrous battle of Talikota, smaller kingdoms were controlled by Nayakas, Telugu-speaking warriors from the Andhra region who had served as governors in the empire and they continued the tradition. All of their paintings bear stylistic influence of the Vijayanagara period. Sadly, South Indian murals have largely remained beyond the purview of documentation, and protection. They have aged over time, wearing away from devotional use and from the sun, rain, humidity, insects, bats, monkeys, and graffiti that deface them.
Constraints of space limit me from providing various images of murals from South India which I have meticulously collected over time. In this short note, I will draw attention to an unique motif in Indian art, the Nava Nari Kunjara.
The Nava Naari Kunjara is an interesting portrayal in Indian art, where an elephant is depicted as being made up of nine women. The motif is remarkable in its meaning as well as in the complex visual depiction. The composition of the Nava Nari Kunjara follows a set convention of nine beautiful women dressed in all their finery placed creatively inside an elephant figure. Four of the female figures form the elephant’s legs. The long plaited hair of one of the women is usually depicted as the elephant’s tail. The figure of a single woman serves as the face of the elephant with her graceful feet extended as the trunk. The hands of another female figure are extended as the tusks. Sometimes, the hands are shown carrying whisks or fans to form the ears. The remaining two female figures form the back and the belly of the elephant. The women represent the nine Rasas as described in the theory of Hindu Aesthetics. The nine Rasas are as follows; Shringara or erotic love, Hasya or the comic element, Karuna or pathos, Veera or heroic, Bhayanaka or terrible, Bibhatsa or Odious, Adbhoota or strange and Shanta or calm. The elephant that is composed of these female figures is symbolic of strength as well as of control over sense organs.
The attached image is from Ramalinga Vilas Palace in Ramanathapuram, South India, which we visited some time ago. Though modest in structure, it is replete with captivating murals. Painted with natural dyes and organic extracts, in vivid, vibrant colours, they cover nearly every inch of the walls and ceilings in the palace's durbar hall and private chambers. These murals portray scenes from various mythologies, historical narratives and scenes from the royal lives. Nava Nari Kunjara figures prominently in the upper level of the palace. It depicts two women riding elephants, each of which is a composite image of nine, bejewelled women. The figure on the left is that of a darker-skinned male, aiming an arrow with intense focus at a regal woman, engaged in the battle with poise. Arrows are flying all around the battle scene. There is an unmistakable dynamic energy in the picturization of the battle. The rich, red background intensifies the dramatic scene. The attention to detail in terms of the costumes and jewellery is quite extraordinary. Often Nava Nari Kunjara is depicted alone and this is an unusual portrayal of two of them, and that too, in battle. It is an astonishing display of an unknown artist’s skill.
The Nava Nari Kunjara is a powerful visual motif whose artistic creation falls under the broader principles of ‘Chitra-drishti’ which refers to the principles of aesthetic perception in Indian art theory (Rasanubhuti). The underlying principle of Hindu art theory is that art should invoke a specific Rasa (feeling/emotion) in the viewer (Rasika). The Nava Nari Kunjara is is a perfect example of this tradition.
“Nine women rise
arms arched as tusks
hips curving into pillars,
hair flowing like rivers.
Nine Rasas shimmer
love, anger, wonder, peace
woven into one gait
an elephant of becoming.
From many, one form.
From one, many voices.
The elephant walks
yet each step is a woman’s dance.”

( Do post your reflections here!)

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The battle of thamirabharani

11/24/2025

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I have an abiding interest to document murals belonging to Vijayanagar and Naik era in South India and have written about a few of them. A few years ago, we made our way to Sri Narambunatha Swamy Temple at Thiruppudaimaruthur, which is about 30 kms from Tirunelveli. The temple which is 1200 years old, lies at the confluence of Thamirabharani and Ghatananadi rivers. Our main intention was to have a glimpse of the murals that are inside the main gopuram. After gaining permission from several agencies, which took quite a while, we made our way up within the gopuram. It was a difficult climb as it was quite dark and the steps were narrow and steep. Once we entered the first level of the gopuram, we were astonished to see beautiful murals adorning every inch of the wall. It was the same story in each level of the gopuram. We spent several hours savouring them with the light from the mobiles. I was able to photograph them with my iPhone which has a high degree of sensitivity to low light.
Murals were painted in horizontal bands than ran the length and width of the wall, organized into bands, stacked one on top of the other, like a paragraph composed of lines of text. They portrayed scenes of mythological, religious interest. It was interesting to note there were also murals depicting actual historical events such as battles. One particular battle was portrayed in detail and that was the Battle of Thamirabharani. It was fought at Aralvaimozhi Pass and was part of a conflict between King Bhoothala Veera Udaya Marthanda Varma and Vijayanagar Emperor Achyutadeva Raya. The conflict began after the King of Travancore refused to pay tribute to Achyutadeva Raya. When the Travancore king annexed territory from the Tenkasi Pandya ruler, Jatila Varman Sri Vallabhan, he sought help from the Vijayanagara Empire. After the battle, the King of Travancore was captured and brought before the emperor, who eventually pardoned him after a light punishment. The battle scenes were depicted vividly with marching soldiers on elephants and horses. I have attached one particular narrative frame which portrays King of Travancore on a a horse confronting the Vijayanagar emperor who is raiding an elephant. It is interesting to note that the entourage of the Travancore army included Muslim soldiers. There were established Muslim settlements, particularly of Arab descent (known as Marakkayars), along the Coromandel Coast and in the region of the battle, who were active in trade and took part in the battle.  
India is blessed with a rich architectural and aesthetic heritage, like these murals which are precious treasures from the pages of history. Mural paintings are not merely great works of art but offer a historical perspective on the society of that era through host of details depicted in them like dresses, ornamentations, arms and armoury etc and this particular mural is a stellar example of it.
“In the hush between hoof beats
The battle unfurls on a crimson wall
horses prance with parasols
elephants sway like carved lullabies
turbaned riders with eyes aflame
each gaze, each gesture, a thread
in the pigmented tapestry of memory.”

(Penned on the occasion of the World Heritage Week, 19th to 25th November 2025)
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tao of birding

11/3/2025

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The seeds for my passion in birding was sown during an outing with my students’ decades ago in Bandipur. The first sighting of a Rufous Treepie is still vividly etched in my memory. Knowing about my nascent interest, my uncle gave me his weather worn binoculars and the interest blossomed. Ahalya is a wonderful spotter, who taught me that watching birds is to be one with it, silently. Over the years we have made several forays into different terrains to have a glimpse of the wonderful, varied avian lives. I do not have a very high end camera and it is more for recording what I see and what I see often eludes the lenses!
Reflecting on birding, it has taught me the art of silent attention. Often in the early morning when we make sorties into the woods, while the mist clings tenderly to the trees and the bird calls echo across the canopy, I just watch, not with expectation, but with presence. This waiting is not passive. It is much like the Taoist concept of ‘Wu-wei,’ which translates as ‘non-action’ or ‘effortless action.’ It is the art of aligning with the flow of things, of acting without force, of doing without striving. While birding, one does not chase the bird; one becomes the kind of stillness in which the bird exists. The act dissolves the boundary between the observer and the observed. In such moments the bird reveals itself, not through our effort, but through its silent presence. And in that act of witnessing, something awakens: a joy that is not dependent on sighting, a peace that arises from being part of the whole.
Birding teaches patience, but ‘Wu-wei’ deepens it into surrender. The rare bird that one is seeking to spot may not appear. Yet the birder remains, not for the checklist, but for the communion. In this way, birding becomes a spiritual practice, a meditation on the beauty of the ungraspable.
In the age of apps and mega optics, where birding can become a pursuit of data, personally for me, the most profound sightings are not those that have been recorded, but those that remain deeply etched in my memory.
I continue to observe, not waiting for a particular bird, but becoming the kind of silence in which its birdsong is heard.
(Look forward to hearing from the reader too!)
Dr Raguram
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Compassion beyond Grudge

10/15/2025

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One of the caves in Ajanta that really fascinated me was cave No 17.  It is one of the most elaborately decorated caves at Ajanta and features a few fairly well-preserved murals, like this one which depicted a group of white elephants. There was one particularly majestic elephant without a tusk with a person holding a weapon at its feet. I was told that it depicted a scene from the Chaddanta Jataka. 
After returning from Ajanta, I searched for the story and found that it was Jataka tale No 514. It tells the poignant tale of the Bodhisatta reborn as Chaddanta, a magnificent elephant king with a radiant tusk who lived in a golden cave beside a serene lake in the Himalayas, ruling over a herd of eight thousand elephants. He had two queens, Mahasubhadda and Chullasubhadda. One day, while he was playfully striking a blooming sal tree, its flowers fell on Mahasubhadda, while dry twigs and red ants landed on Chullasubhadda. Feeling slighted, Chullasubhadda left him and later died, and was later reborn as a princess in the Madda kingdom. She remembered her past life and sought revenge. She convinced the king to send a hunter named Sonuttara to retrieve Chaddanta’s tusks. After a long journey of seven years, seven months, and seven days, Sonuttara found Chaddanta and wounded him. Despite his pain, Chaddanta showed compassion. He refrained from attacking Sonuttara. Learning the reason for the hunt, Chaddanta cut off his own tusks and gave them to him, choosing dignity over vengeance. When the queen saw the tusks, she was overcome with remorse and died from the shock. In her earlier birth she was a young female disciple of Buddha. The hunter was Devadatta in an earlier birth, who became Buddha’s nemesis and tried to kill him three times.
Jealousy plays a prominent role in this tale. Chullasubhadda’s initial resentment stems from a seemingly trivial moment, a misdirected shower of dry twigs and ants. But in her heart, the perceived slight grows into a wound of pride and bitterness. Her unresolved jealousy transcends lifetimes. Even after being reborn, she remembers and nourishes that hurt, letting it evolve into a quest for vengeance. The story uses Chullasubhadda’s jealousy to reflect an innately human frailty: how a single moment of perceived injustice can fester when left unchecked. In contrast to her jealousy, Chaddanta the elephant represents selflessness and grace. He does not retaliate or accuse. He chooses dignity, even removing his own tusks to give the hunter what he came for. His response shifts the emotional weight of the story from vengeance to redemptive sorrow, leading Chullasubhadda to die from remorse. Jealousy is not just a flaw. It distorts relationships and unsettles the moral compass. Bodhisatta’s response indicates how the path of compassion dissolves even the darkest intent.
This narrative mural whispers stories from a bygone era, where history and myth mingle in colourful, rhythmic brushstrokes. Though vagaries of time are evident in the faded pigments and weathered details, it adds to the mural’s mystique. It doesn’t just depict a scene; it invites us into a worldview.
“In faded and tempered hues,
an elephant draped in silence stands
Pierced by a thorn of memory
Bearing no pain or grudge
Bestowing its tusk in compassion.”
(Do take some time whenever you are free, to pen your thoughts here, not merely on the post but also on the quintessential human emotions like hurt, jealousy, perceived injustice and their footprints on human behaviour) 

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Courtship of the great Indian bustard

8/18/2025

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World Photography Day, 19th August, marks the creation of the daguerreotype process in 1837 by Louis Daguerre and Joseph Nicephore Niepce. The process allowed highly detailed photographs to be created on a sheet of copper paper coated with silver. However, World Photography Day wasn't recognised as an international event until 1991. This came about when Indian photographer, OP Sharma, conceived the idea and proposed it to around 150 masters and photographers around the world. The theme for this year is ‘My Favourite Photo.’
My all-time favourite photo is that of the Great Indian Bustard, a magnificent bird native to the Indian subcontinent. Revered for its grandeur and unique characteristics, it has captured the hearts of wildlife enthusiasts and birdwatchers alike. Unfortunately, this majestic species faces a critical threat of extinction due to various human-induced factors.
I spent several hours looking for the bird, in a vast grassland years ago in the company of an ardent wildlife enthusiast Mr Bharat Chedda. It was quite hot and humid and after scouting around the grassland for various bird species, we settled down in a small hide built by the forest department. After a considerable wait, a dainty bird with brownish body and black, brown, and grey markings on the wings made its appearance. It was the female Great Indian Bustard! I was excited to have a glimpse of it and my joy knew no bounds when the male with a striking black cap on its head and a white neck with black breast bands, contrasting beautifully with its light brown plumage made its appearance too. What I witnessed over the next few minutes remains deeply etched in my memory. Both the birds sauntered into the grasslands watchfully keeping pace with each other. Slowly the male inflated the gular sac to a large wobbly bag under its neck, holding the tail cocked up over its back. A low, resonant, booming call announced the onset of the courtship ritual. After a while both of them hid themselves amidst the grass and the male walked away, regally after some time.
The Great Indian Bustard which once thrived across the vast grasslands and arid regions of the Indian subcontinent is critically endangered with just 150 of them now. It is ever more endangered than the tiger. Even sighting one of them is a rarity. That I was able to see a pair and that too during their courtship was a precious privilege which I will cherish for long.
The Great Indian Bustard is not just a bird; it represents the beauty and rich heritage of India’s biodiversity which needs critical conservation efforts and a breeding program in captivity is in progress.
A few lines capturing that indelible experience;
“In the golden grass they move tall,
A dance of nature, a silent call.
One stretches high, a white-necked grace,
The other watches, in this quiet place.
With feathers soft against the sun's warm ray,
They make their world in their own way.
In every step, a story told,
Of a precious life to unfold.
A timeless tale on this rugged floor.”
Do post your reflections here!

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A TimeLESS TALE

8/15/2025

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The tale of Lord Krishna stealing butter, is one of the most endearing episodes from Hindu mythology, primarily drawn from the Bhagavata Purana (10th canto). The story is central to Krishna Janmashtami celebrations, associated with Lord Krishna's childhood in Vrindavan. As a young boy, Krishna, known for his playful and mischievous nature, was fond of butter. He would often sneak into the homes to steal fresh butter, earning him the affectionate name Makhan Chor (Butter Thief).
In its core, the butter-stealing act transcends the framework of literal theft, symbolizing deeper metaphysical concepts in Hindu philosophy. Butter represents the purest essence of milk, obtained through rigorous churning, much like how spiritual practice refines the soul to yield pure devotion, Bhakti. It portrays Krishna as an intimate, playful figure, who ‘steals’ the hearts and minds of the devotees. It reflects the close, personal bond between the divine and devotees.
The story has inspired countless songs, poems, and artworks. Thiruppaan Alvar for instance contributed ten verses that were named Amalanaathipiran in the Nalayira Divya Prabandam. In one of the verses he describes the tale, eloquently:
“கொண்டல் வண்ணனைக் கோவலனாய்
வெண்ணெய் உண்ட வாயன்
என் உள்ளம் கவர்ந்தானை
அண்டர்கோன் அணி அரங்கன்
என் அமுதினைக் கண்ட கண்கள்
மற்றொன்றினைக் காணாவே‟
“I have seen the One whose color is like dark rain clouds.
He is the one with the mouth that swallowed the butter of cowherds
He is the Lord of the devas, He is Lord Ranganatha
He is my nectar, my life!
My eyes have seen my Lord and will not see anything else!.”
This story is deeply embedded in the cultural memory of the subcontinent and has found expression in many artistic forms. When Ahalya and myself recently visited Chintala Venkatramana Swamy temple in Tadipatri, Anantapur district, we saw it depicted in a sculptural form. The narrative begins with Krishna seeing Yashoda churning the milk for butter. Krishna then climbs on a grinding stone to taste the butter. Yashoda punishes him and ties him to a grinding stone. But soon she feels guilty, releases him from it and gives him the butter. The last sculpture shows Krishna holding a dollop of butter in his hands. Sri Aprameya Swamy Temple in Doddamalur, Karnataka, houses this idol of the crawling baby Krishna holding a ball of butter in his right hand, which is known as ‘Ambegalu’. Couples who are unable to conceive often visit this temple and pray to the child Krishna and offer cradles to the deity upon receiving blessings.
I have attached a collage of these images from Chintala Venkatramana Swamy temple, with this post.
“Beneath the hush of temple air,
These stories come alive in granite glare
Each figure carved with sacred breath
Defying time, in graceful depth
An ancient tale chiselled in lively art
Krishna steals the butter, melts the heart.”
Looking forward to your comments here!

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tracing the trail of the bengal monitor lizard

3/25/2025

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We were in the jeep and returning after a day in Manas National Park when the guide suddenly asked the driver to stop and we wondered why. He then pointed out to a tree in which the Bengal Monitor Lizard also known as the Indian Monitor Lizard was peeking out of a hollow. It was so well camouflaged and we could have easily missed it. This behaviour also tallies with its apt Sanskrit name godha, which refers to the habit of concealing oneself.  India is home to four monitor lizards: The Bengal Monitor, the Asian Water Monitor, the Yellow monitor and the Desert monitor.  
The Bengal Monitor, is a unique reptile of versatile character, connected to numerous folklores and myths. In Indian folklore, the monitor lizard is popularly known for its strong claws and firm grip (Udumbu-pudi in Tamil). Legend lauds the daring feat of Tanaji Malusare, a subedar of the Koli community and the commander of the Maratha army who is said to have climbed the steep walls of the impregnable hill-fort of Sinhagad in Maharashtra. In this daring venture he was assisted by his pet monitor lizard, Yashwanti, with a rope fastened to its tail and succeeded in recapturing the fort from the Mughals in 1669. Another famous Maratha warrior, Kama Singh, used a monitor lizard to breach the walls of the Kelna fort; thereafter his tribe came to be known as Ghorpade (the Marathi name for Bengal Monitor Lizard). 
The Bengal Monitor was venerated in Hindu tradition. Parvati, specifically in her form as Gauri, is often depicted performing penance while standing on or with it; ‘Godhasana bhavet gauri’ meaning Parvati is known as Gauri when she performs penance standing on a monitor lizard. Devatamurtiprakarana and Rupamandana, composed by Sutradhara Mandana in the 15th century CE, observed, ‘Aksasutram tatha Padmamabhayam Chavaram tatha Godhasanasrita murtirgrihe pujya Sriye Sada’, that the worship of Gauri on vahana Godha in the household shrine is important and crucial for household prosperity.
There are many sculptural depictions of the Bengal Monitor in temples. For instance, in the Hoysaleshwara temple at Halebeedu, there is a beautiful sculpture of Umamaheswara which portrays a monitor lizard at the feet of the Goddess. In Thirumagaral near Kanchipuram, Siva is said to have appeared as a golden monitor lizard and the deity is called Udumbeshwarar. I wonder whether these faunal depictions in places of worship played a crucial role in highlighting their importance and conservation of wildlife.
One of the biggest threats to these reptiles is hunting them for their skin. The skins of these lizards are used to make drums and their genitals are considered to bring prosperity and are sold widely. People also consider their flesh and eggs as a delicacy and an aphrodisiac.
I was curious to find out more about its medicinal use The consumptive and medicinal value of the meat of the Godha has been repeatedly quoted in the early and medieval Indian texts. The Charaka Samhita, in the classification of foods and drinks grouped it alongside the animals of mamshavarga (edible flesh) group of meat, useful for the Ayurvedic practices. The meat of Godha is considered as madhura (sweet) in vipaka (digestion), and kashaya and katu (bitter) in rasa (taste). Its meat is said to enhance body-strength and enzymes and was advocated for people to help them with good digestion. Sushruta Samhita mentions the meat of Godha on several occasions while prescribing its consumption for treatment of hiccough, glandular swellings, eye diseases, and snake and insect bites.
Thus there is an interesting ambiguity between the ancient medicinal tradition which stressed on the importance of consumption of monitor lizards to enhance health and the sacred tradition which associated the animal with divinity.
Let me end this narration with a tale.
Once Prince Devavrata, the handsome son of King Shantanu of Hastinapura, was riding in his chariot when he noticed a monitor lizard sprawled across his path. He was quite irritated and asked it to get out of his way. However, the monitor lizard, basking blissfully under the sun, didn’t heed to his command and asked him nonchalantly to make his way around it. Devavrata (later Bhishma) was angry that an insignificant little animal was not following his command. He got down from the chariot, picked it up and flung it away and got into his chariot. Hurtling through the air, the lizard landed on the trunk of the Aasana tree. Its bark was full of spines and the lizard was totally impaled on them. When Devavrata was about to leave, the lizard said, “You may be the Prince of Hastinapura, and I may be an insignificant little creature. But you have caused me immense pain and suffering for no fault of mine. And now I am lying on the thorns, incapable of living and unable to die. You too shall suffer the same fate.” Disturbed on hearing this Devavrata rides away and the incident is soon forgotten. Many years later, lying on the bed of arrows on the battle field of Kurukshetra, Devavrata, then Bhishma, remembers the little monitor lizard and its curse and bows his head in submission.
If you enjoyed walking along the trails of the Bengal Monitor Lizard, do post your comments here!

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The DANCE OF TRADITION

1/30/2025

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Decades ago, a Commonwealth Fellowship to UK opened my eyes to the fascinating landscape of cultural anthropology. Essentially, it explores how cultural practices shape and influence the personal and social world around us. Particularly in India, we are part of an enchanted universe. The rich and diverse tapestry of Indian culture, finds expression in myriad ways in vibrant festivals, intricate art forms, diverse religious practices, within the veneer of a unique blend of varied traditions.  Ahalya and myself make an effort to partake and imbibe them in its various expressions. So when a prospect to experience Bhoota Aradhane arose, Ahalya and myself earnestly seized the opportunity and made our way to Aerya Beedu in Bantwal.
Once I entered the majestic portals of the 140-year-old ancestral house, I was ensconced in layers of carefully preserved history. The walls were adorned with meticulously drafted history of the place, with an imposing family tree that spanned centuries. The performers of the Bhoota Kola were busy preparing their colourful costumes which they would be wearing later, during the function. The attention to detail with which each component of the outfit was being attended to was quite impressive.
The ancestral house has been carefully restored with an aesthetic blend of the old and new. We made our way to the Pooja room which was softly lit with lamps and paid obeisance to family deity Annappa Swamy who had a magisterial presence. It was an unforgettable experience to meet with the elders of the household, particularly the matriarch of the house who is 106 years old. The serenity in her visage left a lasting impression on me. During the sumptuous lunch we met with other members of the family, each one of them offering interesting nuggets of information about the hoary history of the place.
The Bhoota Aradhane started in the evening. Nema and Kola are two different ways in which Aradhane is offered. Nema is for Rajan Daivas and Kola is for other Daivas. Annappa Swamy is considered as a Rajan Daiva and sixteen specific processes are followed. Curious to see the performance I found myself a seat in the front. I became totally engrossed in what unfolded before my eyes over the next few hours, some of which I tried to register with the lens of the camera. Annappa Swamy was brought in and placed on an austere looking pedestal, beautifully decorated with flowers. Performers adorned in elaborate costumes, possessed by the spirit danced, at times, fiercely, accompanied by loud drumming and singing, invoking the spirit, offering blessings. When they came near me and looked at me, I was locked in their gaze, transported imperceptibly, into another realm. The performers offered their benediction to the elders, ‘yajamanas’ in the family. The entire performance called nema, originating from niyama (meaning rules and regulations in Sanskrit), lasted for several hours. It was neither a dance performance in the conventional sense nor a stage act. It was one imbued with a profound sense of spiritual expression that touched deep chords within.  The performers were vassals of a cosmic spirit finding expression in tangible ways for us, reiterating that the human world we inhabit and the order of the spirit world are interwoven in delicate ways.
Slowly the villagers made their way to the Annappa Swamy each one with some small offering, seeking blessings. There was a grand dinner in which all the villagers participated. After a day of experiences to savour, we thanked the members of the family for providing a memorable space for us to share this with them. I wanted to personally thank the matriarch of the house and found her in a room quietly sitting and praying in a small room. That image lingered on my mind as we made our way back from Aerya Beedu. 
Here is the  link to some glimpses of the event. Do have a look and feel free to post your comments here and not in Google Photos!
photos.app.goo.gl/CucouJXpRr1QDXyD8



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Forays into the land of the vultures

11/26/2024

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​Vultures have been around for a long time. Modern vultures evolved and diversified 10 million years ago, developing adaptations like sharp beaks, keen eyesight, and a strong sense of smell. The first scientific description of a vulture species was in 1864 by the French naturalist Alfred Grandidier. They have been depicted in many myths and religions. In Sangam literature which dates back to 300BC-300AD, there are many interesting mentions about vultures. For instance, in verse 51 of Agananuru attributed to the poet Perumthevanar, there is an engaging reference to the Red Headed Vulture;
“ஆள் வழக்கு அற்ற சுரத்திடைக் கதிர் தெற
நீள் எரி பரந்த நெடும் தாள் யாத்துப்
போழ் வளி முழங்கும் புல்லென் உயர் சினை
முடை நசை இருக்கைப் பெடை முகம் நோக்கி
ஊன் பதித்து அன்ன வெருவரு செஞ் செவி
எருவைச் சேவல் கரிபு சிறை தீய”

“In the wasteland with no movement
of people, where the sun’s intense
heat has spread, the summers are
long and soaring bamboos grow in
the wide spaces, and a fierce vulture,
his feathers singed, his red ear lobes
appearing like stuck meat,
looks at the face of his mate who
desires meat, in their nest on a tall
dry branch of a tall tree
as the intense wind roars.”
In nature’s scheme of things, the role occupied by vultures is a crucial one. They are the keystone species, vital scavengers that maintain ecological balance by feeding on carcasses. India was once home to the largest populations of vultures in the world, and has therefore been the site of its most catastrophic decline. 99.7% of the population has been wiped out over the past few decades, mainly due to the rampant use of diclofenac in cattle. It is the steepest and most dramatic decline of any animal in recorded history. The decline of vultures is not an isolated event. As humans we are just one thread in the vast tapestry of nature. When the other thread constituted by vulture is frayed at the edges, it has a cascading effect on the entire ecosystem.
Unfortunately because of their association with discarded waste matter, they are viewed with a sense of revulsion. They are the untouchables of the avian world. It is on this background that the efforts of committed conservationists like Bharathidasan deserve to be admired and applauded. Driven by unstinted passion he set up the NGO Arulagam in 2002, focusing on conservation of endangered flora and fauna, especially the vultures. He and his team have worked tirelessly in the Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve over the past two decades to spread awareness about the harmful effects of diclofenac and enlisting community level participation through various programs and initiatives. It has been a remarkable journey.
It was our pleasure and privilege to meet him and travel along with him to his field area where consistent efforts have been made over the years to conserve and protect the vultures. When we spotted nearly two hundred of them, soaring up in the air and settling down on distant tree tops, we were witness to the tireless efforts of Bharathidasan and colleagues over the decades to ensure survival of these endangered species. We were truly overwhelmed with the experience which will remain deeply etched in our memories. In spite of all his remarkable, incredible efforts, Bharathidasan remains so unassuming and self-effacing: a true Karma Yogi!
Words fail to capture the grace and beauty of these majestic creatures. They are among the most valuable gifts of Nature. 
Do post your reflections and comments here!
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