![]() Decades ago when Ahalya and myself were trekking inside a forest on the border of Karnataka and Goa, a villager warned us to be beware of bears. We were told that it is much more dangerous than a tiger since it can maul a person and inflict severe injuries. Needless to say, we were a bit scared, but the beauty of the forest egged us on further. Fortunately we didn’t encounter the feared beast…perhaps it sensed our anxieties and graciously kept away from us! Over the years, we have had close encounters with the tiger, seen the most endangered bird in the Indian subcontinent, but have never had a tryst with the bear. On a recent visit to Hampi, we were very keen to have a glimpse of it at its favoured habitat, Daroji Sloth Bear Sanctuary. We got in touch with Mr Samad Kottur, the acclaimed conservationist who has worked tirelessly for the conservation of the sloth bears. It was an inspiring experience to get to know his untiring efforts to rescue these animals and his passion for their conservation. There is paucity of literature about the ecology and behaviour of sloth bear (in comparison to the tiger!) and it was refreshing to hear that Mr Samad is in the process of studying these aspects for his doctoral thesis. We set off from Hampi one afternoon to Daroji. Soon we were amidst the undulating landscape, with craggy boulders and scrub forest, a favoured habitat for the sloth bears. We waited with bated breath for the bears to make their appearance. The sun was beating mercilessly and after what seemed an endless wait, suddenly a big bear peered from behind a huge rock and looked us. He strolled across the boulders searching for food, licking the rocks and sniffing amidst its crevices. I was transfixed by this sight. With its shaggy coat and ambling stride, it sauntered along its terrain oblivious to our presence. It was distressing to note a fresh wound on its neck. Mr Samad informed us that it must have been the consequence of a territorial battle. Suddenly the first one made a loud guttural sound and as we were wondering as to what had provoked it, we noticed another bear sneaking into the vicinity. It seemed much younger and swift in its strides as it went searching for food. It was greeted with much anger and after a brief aggressive encounter, was driven away. Then it started raining…an unusual phenomenon in the dry, parched landscape of Daroji. The bear however seemed to enjoy its arrival as it put its feet up on the rock to savour the coolness. It took shelter under a big boulder and lay down underneath it for a while. There were others who were sharing the space with the bears. A group of Grey Francolins dancing their way gracefully, foraging for food, a laughing dove with its characteristic call and a pangolin, closely following the bears. We must have watched this enthralling spectacle for over three hours, but it seemed timeless. We were enveloped in the folds of pristine, alluring nature… Silence descended as the sun slowly faded away, casting dark shadows and it was time to prise ourselves from this enchanting landscape. Daroji is near the mythical landscape of Kishkinda, where Lord Rama met Jambavan (King of Bears) during his journey towards Sri Lanka. He was the one who provided a much needed pep talk to Hanuman before he flew off in search of Sita. Unfortunately today while Hanuman is revered and worshipped, not many seem to remember Jambavan, epitomizing the marginalization of its ilk. For some reason references to bears seem limited in folklore, literature and mythology, compared to tigers or elephants. No state has chosen the bear as its state animal and there is no project bear either, though their numbers are declining alarmingly. It was dark by the time we reached Hampi and the night sky was lit by stars. Ursa Major or the Great Bear was somewhere up there watching us, likely feeling more secure light years away… Do have a look at these magnificent dwellers of Daroji at: https://photos.app.goo.gl/7N5MPMQat5icoPz42
30 Comments
Malathi Swaminathan
9/9/2017 12:57:39 am
What a great experience!! Your descriptions gives the real feel of the place. You say three hours, I wondered where you were and where were the bears? The photoshoot is so clear, taking in many of their moves. The bears do give the sense of feeling at home in this environs. Your travel is always insightful. I liked your take on Jambawan - bear - their number. Thanks for the shot of you with Mr Samad Kottur. Thank you Sir, for yet another feast!
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Ragu
9/9/2017 01:45:05 am
Thanks Malathi.
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Malathi
9/9/2017 07:51:26 am
Sir, definitely appreciable!! Thanks to you for introducing us to such a dedicated person! I salute Mr.Samad for doing what he does.
Viji
9/9/2017 01:31:26 am
Marvellous narration.
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Ragu
9/9/2017 01:45:27 am
Thanks Viji!
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Dr Shubrata
9/9/2017 01:42:27 am
Awesome clicks! These bears look so good here, can't imagine them to be so dangerous..... I remember hearing about Jambavantha in Shyamanthaka maNi story of Sri Krishna... But never heard about Sri Rama meeting Jambavantha. Thanks for sharing, sir!
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Ram
9/9/2017 01:46:23 am
Thanks Shubrata!
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Dr Sundar
9/9/2017 02:25:51 am
Beautiful pictures and very interesting analysis of Bears and Jambhavan.
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Ragu
9/9/2017 03:50:03 am
Thanks Sundar!
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Mohan
9/9/2017 08:57:47 am
Balu was and is my favourite
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Dr.Mythili
9/9/2017 03:05:08 am
Amazing! I definitely agree with you regarding not giving importance towards their preservation unlike other parts of the world.Last month visited Alaska,USA and saw some unique brown, black and polar bears but from a safe distance in an open zoo in Anchorage. But saw moose with beautiful antlers, wild rabbits in the open streets/parks:an experience to remember.
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Ragu
9/9/2017 03:51:33 am
Unfortunately the name teddy bear itself comes from a hunting trip!
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Prathap Tharyan
9/9/2017 03:18:14 am
Great pictures contextualized superbly. I recently saw two sloth bears at Yala National Park in Sri Lanka. One was gambling in the distance and the other was resting in a clump of bushes after having feasted by an ant-hill. Was surprised to hear Yala authorities estimate that park has only 6 sloth bears. Seems to confirm your impressions of dwindling numbers.
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Ragu
9/9/2017 03:52:09 am
thanks prathap. Yala is in our bucket list!
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Dr.PRABHAVATHY.K.S.
9/9/2017 03:44:36 am
EXCELLENT!
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Ragu
9/9/2017 03:52:51 am
നന്ദി
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Swaminath G
9/9/2017 06:01:29 am
Sakkath photos. Some are worth medal of honour.
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Ragu
9/9/2017 06:54:20 am
Thanks Swami!
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Ragu
9/9/2017 11:25:46 am
Thanks Mohan. We were in a closed vehicle but the eyes (the lens) were wide open:-)
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Stu
9/9/2017 11:04:39 am
Dear Ragu,
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Ragu
9/9/2017 11:24:04 am
Thanks Stu! Time to catch up!
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Chauki
9/11/2017 09:09:52 am
Sir,
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Ragu
9/12/2017 11:50:30 am
Thanks Chauki. Missed catching up with you!
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Dear Sir,
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Ram
9/14/2017 10:12:47 am
Thanks Hussen! It's an interesting anecdote about Jambunatha! We will visit it next time around...
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Raji
9/26/2017 12:40:58 am
Very well-written piece Doctor. You bring it alive and make us want to visit there!
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Ragu
9/29/2017 12:06:33 am
Thanks Raji!
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Preethi Krishnan
6/23/2021 09:57:17 pm
Enjoyed reading this Sir
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Dr Raguram
6/24/2021 12:41:42 am
Thanks Preethi
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Dr Raguram
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