Landscapes Of The Mind
  • Home
  • Musings & Reflections
  • Glimpses Through The Lens
    • The Feathered Beauties
    • I Saw,I Clicked... >
      • Vishnupur
      • The Tantalizing Landscape Of Uttaranchal
      • Amidst The Sand Dunes Of Khuri
      • Chatris Of Shekawati
      • Havelis Of Shekawat
    • I Saw, I Clicked Part II >
      • Hosaholalu
      • Pristine Havelock
      • Pichavaram
      • Chidambaram
    • I Saw I Clicked Part III >
      • Yosemite
      • A Day At The Vatican Museum
      • Norcia
      • Moscow
    • Butterflies & Flowers
    • Close Encounters At Corbett
    • Bijapur & Beyond
    • Enchanting Athirapalli
    • Splendours of Seatlle
    • Monet's Garden
  • Glimpses Through The Lens: II
    • Poetry in stone >
      • Brihadeeswarar Koil
      • Gangaikondacholapuram
      • Dharasuram
      • Thanjavur Art Gallery
    • In The Land Of Enlightenment
    • Charming Chitrapu
    • Exploring Orissa >
      • Mesmerizing Mangalajodi
      • Bewitching Bhetnoi
      • Daksa Prajapati Temple
    • Birding Down Under >
      • Parrots Galore!
      • Lyrical Lyre Bird
      • Honey Eaters
      • Kingfishers, Wrens, Wagtails, Warblers...
      • Orioles, Golden Whistlers
      • Cockatoos, Kookaburras & Magpies
      • Pigeons, Doves
      • Birds Of Prey, Bower Birds
      • Water Birds & In Flight
      • Others
    • Murals of Pundarikapuram
  • Contact Me

Bewitching Murals Of Bodinayakanur

7/8/2021

66 Comments

 
Picture
I had read some time ago about the murals in a zamin palace at Bodinayakanur. The brief respite between the first and second wave of Covid provided a window of opportunity for Ahalya and myself to consider visiting the place. Fortuitously in March, there was the book release function at Madurai of Nandini Murali’s profoundly reflective narrative, ‘Left Behind’. My dear friend Dr C Ramasubramaniam was of immense help in facilitating and organizing our visit to the palace.

Bodinayakanur is picturesquely situated at the foot hills of Western Ghats in the Theni district, of Tamil Nadu. It is often referred to as India’s cardamom capital and is a thriving market town. Ubiquitous lush green stretches of cultivated lands and mesmerizing blue mountains with rocky peaks kept us company as we drove into the town. The town was abuzz with activity as the then deputy chief minister of Tamil Nadu, O Panneerselvam was filing his nomination papers for the Assembly elections (which he eventually lost!). There were hordes of people milling around with party flags and the crowd came alive when he rode into the town on an open vehicle. We managed to deftly make our way through throngs of people and reached the palace.

The zamindars of Bodinayakanur claim to be the descendants of Rishyashringa maharishi and belong to the Rajakambalam Nayakas, a Telugu speaking group who fled from Bellary in Karnataka when the troops of Alauddin Khilji invaded that region. The palace in the heart of the town was reportedly built by Bangaru Tirumalai Bodi Nayaka.

The first look of the palace which is in a sorry state of disrepair, made me immensely sad. It was a crumbling edifice, though remnants of its glorious past were visible in some intricate tiles in the balustrade. We climbed the stairs and went up to meet the current residents of the palace, who were delighted to receive us. Over tea and biscuits they briefed us about the history of the place and its troubled legal legacy. Beset with many claimants to the property, the entire property has been divided into many small pockets over time. The ageing couple who were currently living in the main building were hopeful of retaining their hold on it in spite of many legal tangles.

The main section of murals was in the basement of the main building and we gingerly made our way down guided by torchlight. I was totally unprepared for the sight unfolding in front of me. Much like Alice I found myself in a wonderland ablaze with murals of vibrant hues the likes of which I had never seen before. Understandably I was getting “curiouser and curiouser” as more and more murals unfolded before my eyes. With the help of a torch light, I started following the narration in the murals which depicted various scenes from the Ramayana. Fortunately since the murals have been painted above the lintel level they were in relatively good shape. Each of them had an explanatory caption in colloquial Tamil. From balakandam to the coronation of Sri Rama, entire episodes have been carefully portrayed using primarily herbal colours. These two hundred year old murals are a glowing testimony to the skills and creativity of the artisans of the period.

After savoring these priceless treasures for a long time, we reluctantly made our way up. I was aware that there was another section of murals in the palace. When I enquired about it, I was told that it was in another part of the property which had been partitioned and belongs to a different member of the family. I could sense a bit of hesitation, but having noticed my interest, the couple said that they would try and secure the key to open it.

The key was obtained and we made our way to the place. Once we were there, we understood why the couple was reluctant to show it to us. The dark and grimy place was being used as a godown. Stacks of paddy and fertilizer bags were heaped all over and the entire place was dirty. The murals were decomposed and in various stages of decay, probably due to the fumes emanating from the fertilizers in that closed space. The majesty of the fading murals was still visible in spite of swathes of cobwebs and dust covering them. I was greatly perturbed and dismayed at this savage neglect of priceless murals.

We thanked the couple for their generous hospitality and made our way back to Madurai, wondering as to how long these murals would survive the vagaries of time and human neglect. The prospects seem bleak unless the government or other agencies wake up from their slumber to preserve these invaluable, precious remnants of our artistic heritage.

In the decrepit mansion
Priceless edifices
Once grand
Recede in dark corners
Whispering stories of yore
Holding onto their memories
Like resilient leaves
On withered branches…


It was an arduous task to photograph the murals in darkness as I was keen not to use the flash. Moreover the paintings were above lintel level, closer to the ceiling and required climbing on a ladder (which wasn’t available) to photograph them. Hence it was a challenge to focus on them and the clarity may not be as perfect as I would have desiredL
This time around I have made a video from the pictures which makes it easier to have quick glimpse of them, rather than scrolling through scores of photos!

The link is: youtu.be/k0tDaN5kSm0
Looking forward to your reflections here!
66 Comments
Prathap
7/8/2021 09:35:49 pm

Unbelievable that those beautifully and intricately crafted murals are so well preserved. Beautifully captured and presented. As always.

Reply
Dr Raguram
7/8/2021 10:21:07 pm

Thanks Prathap. There is a need for major conservation efforts to preserve the murals and the crumbling palace

Reply
Bharathi Mani
7/8/2021 10:13:47 pm

As usual unknown gems so beautifully described by you. I'm saddened by the neglect of these treasures which will be lost forever.
We are not really creating anything new and letting our past creations fade away...

Reply
Dr Raguram
7/8/2021 10:22:45 pm

Thanks Bharathi. One section of the murals in the main palace is fairly well preserved, while those in the godown are in a sad state of neglect.I hope and pray that some organization like INTACH will take interest in conservation of these murals

Reply
Puja Rao
7/8/2021 10:18:18 pm

Thankyou for sharing these truly priceless gems , Dr ragu . The first thing that struck me was the sense of community and the chaos and order and how they seem to coexist, presented so effortlessly in that space through the art . Makes one want to know more , the stories within the story .. symbolism of colours , movement or the absence of it , representation of emotions The moments within the story , the experiences within those moments ... what's lost what's found ... like an enchanted forest !

Reply
Dr Raguram
7/8/2021 10:24:13 pm

Thank you Puja. All the scenes are from various episodes of the Ramayana. Though they are two hundred years old, they come alive with resplendent beauty!

Reply
Puja Rao
7/9/2021 01:16:46 am

Indeed ..Its fascinating to see the retelling of stories through the ages and mediums to keep them alive . Thankyou for that :)

Pawan Maloo
7/8/2021 10:37:16 pm

Seer passion can only create these kind of photography. Though these murals are preserved from many years but we could not have known about it without Dr Raghuram. Congratulations Sir.

Reply
Dr Raguram
7/8/2021 10:49:14 pm

Thanks Pawan. My effort has been to search and document them before they disappear from our eyes:-(

Reply
Dr. Gomathi Gowda
7/8/2021 10:46:40 pm

The colours so fresh, brings out reminiscences of Lepakshi flavour and even the murals at Sravanabelagola. The lines and the composition are evident of the techniques and the dark background enhances the narrativity and the paraphernalia used in the composition. It is amazing to see such wonderful art. How nicer it would be if the place could be given a heritage tag....

Reply
Dr Raguram
7/8/2021 10:50:01 pm

Absolutely! I richly deserves a heritage tag and efforts to protect and conserve it

Reply
Dr Raguram
7/8/2021 10:51:10 pm

I have written about the hampi and lepakshi murals in this blog!

TMVenkataswamy Gowda link
7/8/2021 10:59:26 pm

i commented on the site-it is very good

Reply
Dr Raguram
7/8/2021 11:11:25 pm

Thank you!

Reply
Lalitha
7/8/2021 11:41:09 pm

How I wish that bodinayakanur palace come under heritage tag. Pics of murals r so beautiful that i wish they r all protected from further damage as usual ur descriptions take us all to thaw palace

Reply
Dr Raguram
7/8/2021 11:49:31 pm

That's my prayer too!

Reply
Chauki
7/8/2021 11:44:28 pm

Sir, Unbelievable paintings ! The colours,intricate designs and even the emotions on their faces so fresh and dazzling even after 200 years. It would be tragic if we lose them.

Reply
Dr Raguram
7/8/2021 11:50:33 pm

Absolutely! My intention was to document them and bring them to the attention of conservationists. Hope it happens!

Reply
Jugal Tiwari link
7/8/2021 11:45:35 pm

Thanks you Sir for sharing the information on such hidden gems. Very beautifully described. Surely your efforts to preserve these murrels will happen. Your journey through cardamom rich area reminds me my travel once to mint growing areas near Badaun in UP.

Reply
Dr Raguram
7/8/2021 11:51:22 pm

Thank you! True...the landscape is as pristine as these murals!!

Reply
Seema
7/9/2021 12:08:42 am

Thank you for sharing Sir. Enjoyed reading about the details of the place. 🙏🏼

Reply
Dr Raguram
7/9/2021 12:20:08 am

Thanks Seema!

Reply
Ravi M
7/9/2021 12:58:05 am

Amazing murals
Shame that they are slow decaying
How far is it from Madurai
Next time will visit

Reply
Dr Raguram
7/9/2021 02:00:08 am

Many are well preserved. But the structure in which they are, needs to be preserved as the building is crumbling

Reply
Sethuraman
7/9/2021 01:17:10 am

Beautiful paintings, very intricately done with details and equally well captured in spite of the restricted light and accessibility

Reply
Dr Raguram
7/9/2021 02:00:22 am

Thanks Sethu!

Reply
Nandini Murali
7/9/2021 02:07:29 am

Hurtling through the rabbit hole of wonder into mural land! Gratitude , Ragu , for your perspectives, your wisdom and your gift of "seeing" with unclouded vision .
This is so vibrantly visual... form follows purpose! Loved your reference to Alice, one of my all time fave fictional characters!

Reply
Dr Raguram
7/9/2021 02:12:39 am

Hope I can discover more of these rabbit holes before they disappear:-)

Reply
Gautam Moorthy
7/9/2021 05:25:47 am

Another visual treat served to us by Dr Raguram. It’s uncanny how he manages to dig up such treasures. It’s indeed a pity that we are in danger of losing our precious heritage. Hope the families can get their act together and create a trust to take care of and monetise this treasure trove. Delighted and saddened at the same time. Thank you, Ragu.

Reply
Dr Raguram Ramanathan
7/9/2021 07:37:03 am

Thanks Gautham. That was also our deep concern which we shared at length with the couple. The monetization has to address their concerns and insecurities too. They are just holding onto this piece of the property hoping that it will be legally theirs. It will require efforts from multiple perspectives and agencies to preserve these murals

Reply
K. G. Shyamkrishnan
7/9/2021 06:26:44 am

Thanks Raghu to introduce me to the trasure trove. Hope your efforts will reach people who would do something to preserve such invaluable treasure.

Reply
Dr Raguram
7/9/2021 07:38:26 am

Thank you. I have also spoken to some prominent persons in the region emphasizing the need to preserve and protects these priceless treasures. I fervently hope that it happens

Reply
Shashi
7/9/2021 07:15:13 am

The vibrant colours, the discerning eye for detail, the elegance of the social interactions and the breadth of the situations- these paintings is the very essence of elegance and beauty. I was especially entranced by the depiction of Gajalakshmi at 2.28.

At some points in the YT video- 1.12, 1.23, 2.20 etc I thought I saw something really curious in a good way. the princes seemed to be doing salaam to their elders and tribals seemed to be doing salaam to the princes. Did the area have a big Islamic influence. It seemed like the paintings were not just breathtakingly beautiful but also a reflection of a pluralistic community.

RR Sir, Thanks for the lovely visuals. A silent poem indeed.

Another name on the wish list to visit.

Reply
Dr Raguram
7/9/2021 07:41:32 am

True...the detail is each one of them is absolutely outstanding. Offering obesience to elders and others by placing the hand on the head is a gesture that extends beyond Islamic influences as you will see it being enacted all around even now! Moreover the rulers of this zamin actually fled from Karnataka fearing the Muslim rulers!

Reply
Mala balagopal
7/9/2021 08:06:26 am

As usual your descriptions are very enjoyable along with visual treat. Have you been to chittannavasal. Waiting for your visit from chittannavasal

Reply
Dr Raguram Ramanathan
7/9/2021 09:43:17 pm

Thanks. Not yet! On our bucket list!

Reply
Asha Patil
7/9/2021 08:28:06 am

Incredible photographs that undoubtedly follows with its incredible stories. Thank you Dr Raguram for illustrating the beautiful story of these equally beautiful murals. Thank you for enlightening us with your perspectives and bringing into limelight the issues these treasures face. Hope actions will be taken in time to preserve ancient treasures like these across the country!

Reply
Dr Raguram
7/9/2021 09:44:00 pm

Thanks Asha. I fervently hope that they are taken care of and preserved for posterity

Reply
Haripriya
7/9/2021 09:54:25 am

Sculpture is an art form that is long lasting. One is in awe of the Vedas which have been living for thousands of years and passed on perfectly by oral means. Art, traditions, languages, landforms all seem to have a life (birth, peak, fade). Respectfully, this art is getting few eyes to admire its glorious colour and detail!

Reply
Dr Raguram
7/9/2021 09:45:04 pm

True. Unfortunately many of the murals in many places across Tamil Nadu are in a sad state of neglect

Reply
Rajan Iyyalol
7/9/2021 10:44:50 am

Sir
Your treasure hunts are very unique, unravelling the extraordinary marvels of history in the remote corners of our land. When you display those treasures with your magnificent photographs and brilliant descreptions, it is equal to be physically present there and experiencing it first hand.
Your deep anguishes about the state of neglect and decay of those treasures are shared by all like minded poeple. Hope your write up evokes some positive response from the concerned authorities..

As a nation our govts historically did very little to preserve our heritage structures and relics, when compared to other countries. From that stage of indifference and neglect, we have entered a more disastrous phase of wilful destruction by the authorities themselves. Now
India’s history itself is being subjected to divisive and rival narratives. Manufacturers of the safron version of history targets the material remnants of our history too. As a preamble of that erasure project, in 2020, Modi government amended the  'Ancient Monuments and Archaeological Sites and Remains Act' that prohibited demolition or building activity within 100 metres from the limits of a historical monument.  AG Krishna Menon, a famous architect and urban planner, along with many other experts in the field had cautioned the govt " “Let us not mistake the consequences of the proposed new legislation. It will ring the death knell for many of the country’s treasured monuments .” But no one cared.

Now they are in a bulldozing spree, demolishing historical sites and buildings - as seen in Delhi Vista project site. Yogi Adityanad declared that Taj Mahal did not represent indian history or heritage and he callously removed it from UP govts official heritage destination's list. He refused to allocate any money in last yr's state budget for the maintenance of such a world famous monument.
It is a painful paradox that a regime that boasts to inherit the monopoly of all our historical and cultural assets and the 'deshbakths' who attain instant desi orgasm with every heroic tales of its past achievements, are doing this to our national treasures. It indeed is a complete disaster story.  

While our authorities wont give a damn to conservation efforts, slowly, concerned citizens are taking own initiatives to protect India’s art and artifacts, investing their personal resources and time to preserve rare and often fragile pieces of the past.

' India Lost and Found' project started by Photographer Amit Pasricha and his team aims to photograph thousands of crumbling structures around India and record their stories. They are trying to build awareness about the issue. Sir, your documentations will be an invaluable asset to their team I think.
Let us hope that our rulers show a bit more sensible and civilsed approach to this conservation issue and stop this complete disregard to the cultural and historical remnants. Meanwhile personal efforts like yours with broader networking could make the public more sensitive about these isuues.

Reply
Dr Raguram
7/9/2021 09:54:29 pm

Thanks Rajan. True, it is indeed uncomfortably true that many heritage structures do not get the attention they deserve. The budget allocation for maintenance and conservation of these structures is also quite meagre. That said, the callous way with which the visitors treat and handle these monuments is also an issue of concern. India Lost and Found is an important initiative, but for some strange reason not much of focus on South India!

Reply
Senthil
7/9/2021 05:16:33 pm

Breathtaking pictures Sir! Vibrant colours!! They stand out even after two hundred years. We had great artisans then. Your pictures and narration, no doubt make us feel that we are standing over there. Sir, Subhadra is cross with me now as I didn’t take her to this place whenever we went to Madurai. We have driven past Bodi, as it is called now several times. I must confess that I wasn’t aware of this treasure. Thank you Sir.

Reply
Dr Raguram
7/9/2021 09:56:19 pm

It is indeed fascinating...do make sure that you make it a point to visit it next time you're in Madurai

Reply
Dr.Priya Manish
7/9/2021 05:52:15 pm

Dr.Priya
Thank you so much dear doctor for this visual treat along with your beautiful description. I never knew anything Other than visiting such places & watching, but, all your photography along with interesting descriptions are giving a different feel to it .

Reply
Dr Raguram
7/9/2021 09:56:44 pm

Thank you Priya!

Reply
Anita reddy link
7/9/2021 07:34:38 pm

As Ahalya and you keep unearthing the richness of our heritage and art, I relived the inner beauty of the artists and artisans whose expressions we now comment upon. I pray in their time they saw more recognition and security for their families than thousands today who languish with no encouragement or patronage. Kudos to them. And Ragu your photos and poetic descriptions, your concerns that awaken the fire for just action , invigorate me to step out and do more for such of those who poured their inner energies and potential on the walls of the Bodi palace. Thank you Ragu for reminding us that there is more , so much more, beyond the pandemic waves.

Reply
Dr Raguram Ramanathan
7/9/2021 10:06:54 pm

Thank you Anita. It is indeed remarkable to savor the intricate works of these talented, unknown artists. The place and the paintings cry for some tender loving care which you have so lovingly bestowed on kalamkari artisans and their families

Reply
A lakshmi
7/9/2021 10:44:32 pm

it is amazing dr raguram

Reply
Dr Raguram
7/9/2021 10:51:37 pm

Thanks Lakshmi!

Reply
Saranya
7/10/2021 11:41:52 am

Making a video is a nice idea though i could not read the captions that fast.

Reply
Dr Raguram Ramanathan
7/11/2021 04:35:01 am

It is difficult to read the captions even if you were to be there!

Reply
Shalini Kurup
7/11/2021 04:24:42 am

Bewitching indeed ! The murals as well as your musing !

Reply
Dr Raguram
7/11/2021 04:35:15 am

Thanks Shalini!

Reply
Ravi Shankar Rao
7/11/2021 05:15:48 am

These fascinating murals at Bodinayakanur reflect the richness of our past so tellingly. You have painstakingly shot the video giving us a view of the herbal paintings that have remained relatively well preserved over time. The Ramayana as a theme for depiction in art, has been a universal favourite and the paintings here reveal an unmatched beauty of their own. Your narrative inspired me to go into the history of the place. As much as i could gather the 800 year old palace passing through various rulers and finally to the Nayakas and resting now at the hands of the Zamindars made interesting reading. The recent history informed of the life and times in British India, the Zamindari system, English legal systems and the legal tangles of the Bodinayakanur zamin that reached the Privy Council! Post independence India abolishing the zamindari system added another dimension to the problem. You have mentioned this as having a bearing on the present condition of the properties. Art and culture are so influenced by history and political systems.

Reply
Dr Raguram Ramanathan
7/12/2021 06:16:03 am

Thanks Ravi. Depiction of various scenes from mythology is a common theme in almost all temples and places of worship. Only the medium and the style of depiction varies! True, the history of the place makes very interesting reading! In fact there is a lengthy court record of one of the court battles which quotes various historical records. That said, the legacy of the place is still quite in dispute which might hamper any efforts at protection and conservation

Reply
Dr Madhava Rao
7/15/2021 08:23:57 pm

Dear RR
The quality of the Murals with minute details is unbelievable-idea of videography is super-as always,narration is excellent.its interesting to note the name’ Bhodinayaka’/Rishyasringa both giving clue of influence of Bhuddisam ,supporting claim of locals.can you please write to Govt authorities abt present state of affairs ( if not done already)
I have succeeded in few incidences 🙏🏽

Reply
Dr Raguram
8/26/2021 07:31:57 am

True. I have initiated attempts to bring these priceless murals to the attention of government and other agencies

Reply
Susha
7/19/2021 08:36:02 pm

Thank you for the pictures and the story!

Reply
Dr Raguram
8/26/2021 07:32:11 am

Thanks Susha

Reply
Ganesh Prasad Mudraje
7/24/2021 08:27:12 am

Wonderful narration of invaluable mural paintings.
It's really saddening to know about neglect of such precious heritage by the government.
Hope some measures of protection will be done soon.Thanks for your inputs on this rare mural paintings

Reply
Dr Raguram
8/26/2021 07:32:53 am

Thanks Ganesh. My idea to document these murals is also to highlight the importance of their conservation and preservation

Reply
Sampath
9/8/2021 09:11:55 am

Sir, Great piece of art and equally complimented with the great writing.. awesome photography.... truly a masterpiece...

Reply
Dr Raguram Ramanathan
9/23/2021 01:41:44 am

Thanks Sampath

Reply
Manju Reddy
9/19/2021 12:31:18 pm

Sir,
Took my breath away to see such carefully planned details in the murals. Again feel blessed that we get a peek at the great creative minds of our ancestors. I was quite intrigued by the colors used to depict different characters of Ramayana. The painting on the arch is undeniably magnificent and unique. Again deeply grateful for taking us to these wonders.

Reply
Dr Raguram
9/23/2021 01:42:11 am

Thanks Manju!

Reply



Leave a Reply.

    Dr Raguram

    Someone who keeps exploring beyond the boundaries of everyday life to savor and share those unforgettable moments....

    Archives

    October 2022
    September 2022
    May 2022
    April 2022
    March 2022
    December 2021
    October 2021
    September 2021
    August 2021
    July 2021
    June 2021
    January 2021
    December 2020
    November 2020
    September 2020
    August 2020
    July 2020
    June 2020
    April 2020
    March 2020
    December 2019
    October 2019
    September 2019
    August 2019
    July 2019
    June 2019
    May 2019
    March 2019
    February 2019
    January 2019
    October 2018
    September 2018
    August 2018
    June 2018
    May 2018
    April 2018
    March 2018
    February 2018
    January 2018
    December 2017
    November 2017
    October 2017
    September 2017
    July 2017
    May 2017
    April 2017
    March 2017
    January 2017
    December 2016
    September 2016
    March 2016
    February 2016
    January 2016
    November 2015
    October 2015
    September 2015
    August 2015
    July 2015
    June 2015
    April 2015
    March 2015
    February 2015
    January 2015
    December 2014
    October 2014
    April 2014
    March 2014
    February 2014
    January 2014
    October 2013
    August 2013
    July 2013
    May 2013
    May 2012
    November 2011
    October 2011
    September 2011
    August 2011
    July 2011

    Categories

    All

    RSS Feed

Proudly powered by Weebly