Mesmerizing Melakadambur

​Covid was a dampener in many ways, including hampering many of our travel plans. Once it’s hold started waning, we headed to Melakadambur, much before the brouhaha about the movie Ponniyin Selvan! Kadambur figures prominently in Kalki’s novel Ponniyin Selvan and more importantly is the home for one of the most gorgeous temples. Once we expressed our desire, our friends Drs Balamurugan and Sudharsan provided us all the assistance. They introduced us to Mr Vijay also known as Kadambur Vijay who has been involved in documenting many details associated with the temple and received us warmly when we went there.
The first impression of the temple was quite stunning. Though a comparatively small one compared to many of the Chola era temples, it is exquisite in its details. It dates back to the early 12th century, from the time of Kulothunga Chola. The temple is one of very few examples remaining, of the Karakoil type of construction, where the garbhagriham is shaped like a chariot being pulled by horses. In the late 19th century, after the temple had seen a lot of neglect and dilapidation, the temple was renovated by Arunachalam Chettiar of Devakottai. There is virtually no empty space on the outer walls of the garbhagriham, with almost every square inch taken up by delicate carvings. Among them, the sculpture of Dakshinamurti was the most beautiful one.  It was interesting to note that Dakshinamurti was depicted in three different forms in the vimanam. One of them was the Yoga Dakshinamurthy seated on a bull under a banyan tree with a flute and veena. The pedestal of the temple consists of 18 different distinct moulded tiers. Unlike the other Chola temples which are known for their huge size sculptures, this temple is a miniature wonder. Its outer wall is completely filled with innumerable miniature friezes depicting various mythological stories. One can see Parvathi Devi in two contrasting moods: with Lord Gangadhara, she is in an angry mood whereas with Lord Aalinganamurthy, she is seen with a pleasant smile, sitting on his lap and the Lord embracing her with love. Another interesting sculpture is that of Durga. She appears without her big toes on the lion. Below her idol, Maha Meru as well as the Yantra installed by Adi Shankara are seen. She is a Vishnu Durga as she appears with Shanku (conch) and Chakra (disc).
As I was circumambulating the shrine, I noticed that one of the wheels of the chariot shaped temple seemed to have been stuck on the ground. Therein lies a story!
Devas who churned the ocean began to consume the nectar without worshipping Lord Vinayaka who angrily took away the pot to teach them a lesson.  When he passed through this place which was a Kadamba forest, a drop of nectar fell here and became a Swayambu Linga.  Realizing their folly, Indra and Devas came here and begged Lord Vinayaka’s pardon who in turn advised them to worship Lord Shiva.  Lord Shiva responding to their prayers, gave them the nectar and stayed here as Amirthakadeswarar: Amirtha (nectar), Kada (pot), Easwar. Athithi, mother of Devas, would visit the temple every day from Devalokam to worship Lord Amirthakadeswarar. Indra wanted to make her job easier by taking the Lord to Indraloka itself.  He changed the temple to a chariot and tried to drive it towards his place without worshipping Lord Vinayaka.  So Lord Vinayaka pressed the left wheel which got stuck to the earth! Regretting his folly, Indra he begged Lord Vinayaka to pardon him.
Narasimha Varma Pallavan brought a sculpture of Ganapathy from Vathapi after the war with the Chalukyas, which is now housed in the Thiruchenkattankudi temple. Likewise, Rajendra Cholan I also brought a Vinayaka statue after the war with the Ganga dynasty which can be seen in the temple. It is called Aaravara Vinayaka, who is linked to the legend.  
The temple also houses a very unusual Chola bronze, Dasa Bhuja Rishabha Tandavamurti (Siva with 10 arms, dancing on the Rishabham). It is said that the deity belongs to the Pala dynasty of Bengal and was brought by the victorious King Rajendra Chola. Unfortunately, we couldn’t have a glimpse of it as it is brought out only during pradosha puja, every fortnight.
The prime deity Amirtakadeswarar  in the form of shiva lingam is believed to be carved out of Navapashanam (solidified compound of nine precious, poisonous substances as per Siddha procedure). It is believed that all the nine planets pray to Lord Shiva in this temple on their respective days.  Accordingly, Lord Shiva is dressed with clothes of different colours attributed to the planets.
The Ambal has an unusual name Vidyu Jyothi Nayaki. She is said to represent all the three Devis: Saraswathi in the morning, Lakshmi in the afternoon and Durga or Shakthi in the night. The decorations are also accordingly changed.
Saint Tirunavikkarasar’s sang this hymn here:
நம் கடம்பனை பெற்றவள் பங்கினன் 
தென் கடம்பை திருக் கர கோயிலான் 
தன் கடன் அடியேனையும் தாங்குதல் 
என் கடன் பணி செய்து கிடப்பதே 
Devi who is the mother of our Kadamban
The Lord of the Karakkoyil of Thirukadambur
His duty is to support me too.
I am obliged to keep serving him
After spending time in the temple, we made our way to Keezhakadambur temple and found that the entry gate was locked. It took a little effort to get the priest to open it. Unlike the Melakadambur temple, it is quite dilapidated, with several sculptures strewn around the ground. According to the legends, Indra was asked to install one crore lingams to atone for his misdeeds at Keezhakadambur. But every lingam that he tried to install would get damaged. So Indra prayed to Shiva, who instructed him to make just one Lingam, while chanting the Panchakshara mantram one crore times; the lingam called Rudrakoteeswarar is installed here. It is believed that even today, Indra performs puja at this temple every day.
We were curious to have a glimpse of the famed Kadambur Palace and its ruins. Unfortunately, its exact location is not so well known or documented. Perhaps future efforts to unearth it may prove to be fruitful.
After this extremely fulfilling visit, replete with wonderful memories, we made our way back driving along the vast expanse of Veeranam lake, built by Rajaditya Chola in 10th century. Kalki’s Ponniyin Selvan begins on the shores of this remarkable locale!
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